SANAT VE MİMARİMİZE YENİDEN BAKMAK
YA DA ONLARLA “ARKADAŞ OLMAK”
Sene 1984. İngilizce hazırlık sınıfında okuduğum senenin yaz aylarıydı. Hattat arkadaşlar beni bir Hans’la tanıştırdılar; bununla konuş, anlaş diye; hatla, sanatla ilgili farklı düşünceleri var diye. İngilizce konuşup pratiğimi geliştireceğimden ötürü sevinerek tanıştım, tabii. Hans’ın İngilizcesi de İngilizce sayılamazdı ama olsun, öyle ya da böyle pratik yapacaktım, gerisine pek bakmıyordum zaten.
Hans, İngilizceyi II. Dünya Savaşı sonrasında Almanya’yı işgal eden Amerikan askerlerinden öğrenmişti, dolayısıyla sokak İngilizcesi konuşuyordu. Uzun boylu, zayıf, neşeli bir ihtiyardı. Grafikermiş, İstanbul’a daha önce de gelmiş; Kuzey Afrika’yı da dolaşmış; eşini kaybetmiş; resim ve mimariden başka şiiri de çok seviyormuş. İslam sanatlarıyla çok yakından ilgileniyormuş hatta Suudi Arabistan’daki bir firma için yeni bir yazı sitili (hat) geliştirmiş… Yani benim için bulunmaz bir adam. İngilizce konuşalım derken bir atom karıncaya tesadüf etmeyeyim mi?
Başladık, gün aşırı buluşmaya, gezmeye, dolaşmaya. İlk önce İbrahim Paşa Sarayı‘na (müzesine) gittik. Benim oraya ilk gidişim… O kadar seneden beri İstanbul’dayım, hiç gitmemişim. Hans, ilk mahcubiyetimi bana orada yaşattı. İstanbul’da böyle bir müze var, ben oranın semtine bile uğramamışım. Orada Selçuklulardan ve Beylikler döneminden kalma kitabelerde son derece değişik Kufi yazılar var ve Hat sanatına, Kufi yazıya çok yakından ilgi duymama rağmen buradaki bu yazıtlardan haberim bile yok. Elin gâvuru sen buraya gel, o müzeyi gez, o yazıları incele, onlardan yeni bir yazı sitili geliştir ve onu Suudi Arabistan’a pazarla. Pes doğrusu. Gel de utanma…
Bendeniz de öyle oturup duran bir insan değildim, İstanbul’un tarihi mekânlarını, sokaklarını, türbelerini gezen biriydim. Buna rağmen Hans beni açık düşürmeye devam ediyordu. Bir gün Beyazıt Camii’nin dışındaki Çınaraltı kahvesinde buluşmak üzere sözleşmiştik. Ben vaktinde geldim ama Hans buluşma saatinden çok önce gelmiş, bir masaya oturmuştu; baktım ki bir kâğıdın üzerine bir şeyler çiziktiriyordu. Merhabadan sonra bana dedi ki “Burada ne yazıyor?” Bir karenin içine istif edilmiş satrançlı Kufi bir yazıydı, okumakta biraz zorlanmıştım ama sonuçta İhlâs Suresi olduğunu çıkarabilmiştim. Bunu nereden buldun diye sorduğumda bana Beyazıt Camii’nin minaresinin kaidesini gösterdi. Evet, orada öyle bir yazı vardı ve önünden yüzlerce kez geçen ben onu hiç görmemiştim, böyle bir yazının farkına varmamıştım.
Bir gün de beni aldı Süleymaniye Camii‘ne götürdü; bir sanatkâr gözüyle o abideyi anlattı. Sonra da Sultanahmed Camii‘ne gittik, Mavi Cami’yi de bana tanıttı. Bu camileri onlarca kez gezmiş olduğumu söylememe gerek yok ama Hans her ikisini de öyle anlatmıştı ki hayran olmuştum. Hatta ikisinin mukayesesini de yapmış; aralarındaki farkları, benzerlikleri, birbirlerine olan üstünlüklerini öyle ustalıkla çizmişti ki… Bu iki şaheseri zihninde hiç birleştirmeyi ve kıyaslamayı düşünmeyen o genci hayretler içinde bırakmıştı.
Hans’tan, ben, özellikle kendi medeniyet, sanat ve mimarimize yeniden daha derinden, daha incelikli bir gözle bakmayı öğrenmiş oldum. Ve camilerimizden, çeşmelerimizden, sokaklarımızdan, eski evlerimizden çok daha fazla zevk aldım. Gezdim, keşfettim, baktım, gördüm, öğrendim; çok değişik tatlar aldım, haz duydum ve ecdadımızı, uygarlığımızı bir kat daha sevdim, onlara minnet duydum. Ve yeni bir şeyler yapmak onlardan için güç ve ilham aldım.
Hans gelmiş ve bana çok önemli şeyler öğretmişti…
* ** *** ** *
“İnsan, arkadaşının kötü duruma düşmesini ister mi hiç?”
1999 ya da 2000’de, yine bir yaz günü Üsküdar’daki Atik Valide Camii‘nin avlusunda cuma namazından sonra arkadaşlarla çay içiyorduk. Sırtında bir kaç çanta bulunan zayıf, sarışın bir turistin etrafına bakına bakına bize doğru geldiğini gördük. Arkadaşlardan biri “Gelse de ona tebliğ etsek.” diye bir temennide bulundu. O da gerçekten yanımıza geldi ve bir sandalyeye oturdu. Başladı, tarzanca konuşmaya. Biraz sonra çok şaşıracağını bilmeden bir şeyler el kol hareketleriyle çat pat Türkçe konuşmaya çalışıyordu. Arkadaşların içinde en az İngilizce bilen bendim, diğerlerinin hepsi değişik kolejlerde İngilizce öğretmeniydi. Richard, bunu anlayınca biraz şaşırdı ama sevindi de. Ressammış, bir web sitesi (www.richardhoare.com) varmış, İstanbul’a ve Atik Valide’ye daha önce de gelmiş; Hindistan ve Tibet’i gezmiş; kiliseyi pek sevmezmiş çünkü su isteyenlere su vermeyip suyun imitasyonunu veriyormuş… Bu arada hepimize havasını attı. (Mesnevi’nin bütününü okuduğundan) “Aranızda Mesnevi’nin hepsini okuyan var mı?” diye sorunca hepimiz mahcup olduk. Mesnevi’yi ben çok okumuştum lakin bütününü okudum diyemem; ama ne olursa olsun top doksandan ağlarımıza girmişti.
O sıralarda Atik Valide Külliyesi’nin birçok yeri restore ediliyordu. Caminin derneği de fedakârca çalışıyor ve orayı herkes için, turistler için bir cazibe merkezi haline getirmeye gayret ediyordu. Birçok projeler üretiyorlar ama sonuç almakta zorlanıyorlardı. Biz de orayı çok seviyorduk onlarla ahbap olmuştuk, zaman zaman dertleşiyorduk. Richard’ı onlarla tanıştırdık, külliyeyi gezmek için iki gün sonrasına randevu aldık.
Buluştuğumuzda önce medreseyi gezdik, orası yeni restore görmüştü ama eskiden çok kötü kullanıldığını dernek başkanı bize biraz da üzülerek anlattı. Bu haline de şükür diyerek Şa’bâniyye tarikatının âsitâne-i sânisi (ikinci büyük tekkesi) olan binayı gezmeye geçtik. Geçmez olaydık. Rich’le ben şok olduk. Bina haraptı, içinde köpekler dolaşıyordu; birçok yerinde ateşler yakılmıştı, oralar simsiyah olmuştu; yerde içki şişeleri vardı, belli ki akşamları tekkenin ziyaretçileri(!) vardı. Çok üzülmüş ve kahrolmuştum, üstelik bir yabancının yanındaydım, utanç duyuyordum. Başkandan öğrendik ki burası birkaç sene öncesine kadar bir vakfın öğrenci yurdu imiş, o zamanlar buraya hiç olmazsa sahip çıkılıyormuş ama…
Tekkenin avlusunda asırlık selviler vardı, bir tanesi bir yanından çürümeye başlamıştı. Richard, ağaçlardan da anlıyordu. “Bu ağaç yaşar, merak etmeyin.” dedi. Üzüntü ve utancımı onunla paylaşınca “Geçmişinizle, mimari eserlerinizle dost olmalısınız, onlarla arkadaş olmalısınız.” dedi ve devam etti: “İnsan arkadaşının kötü duruma düşmesini ister mi hiç? Ama önce onlarla arkadaş olmalı; gelmeli, gitmeli; oralarda vakit geçirmeli. Ondan sonra arkadaşlara yardım edilmeli. Kendimiz yardım edemiyorsak yapabileceklere yardım etmeli.”
Richard adlı birisi mi söylemişti bunları? Biz mi ona tebliğ etmiştik, yoksa bu adam Müslüman mıydı? Peki, biz neydik?
* ** *** ** *
Bir son söz söylemeye gerek var mı?
Tekkenin son halini mi merak ettiniz?
* Haydar M. Hepsev’in bu yazısı, Temmuz 2003’te yazılmış; 23 Kasım 2007 tarihinde yucedevlet.com’a eklenmiş, sitemiz yeniden yapılandırılmadan (Aralık 2011′den) önce 850 kez okunmuştur.
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